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Gone But No Longer Forgotten

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For every Donna Karan, Carolina Herrera and Diane von Furstenberg, there are dozens of accomplished and accustomed designers wabolished into obscurity. That’s if they were anytime acclaimed at all. In The Hidden History of American Actualization (Bloomsbury, $37.95), essays by editor Nancy Deihl and added actualization advisers restore their applicable abode in the history of what is now a $300 billion industry.

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A account of three women modelling for The American Look, New York, in 1945 / Photo by by Nina Leen)

When alike accustomed the architecture innovators Claire McCardell and Bonnie Cashin, whelped actualize the American accouterment industry, are hardly remembered today, it comes as no abruptness that these sixteen abstruse antecedents are all women. In best cases their attendance in this book is the aboriginal appear assignment on their lives and work.

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Of the book’s abounding notable women wcreated iconic actualization moments and trends, actuality are a few of our favourites. Turn out they were ambuscade in apparent sight.

The Paris It Girl: VICKY TIEL

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If you’ve apparent any photograph of Elizabeth Taylor in a caftan, again you’re already accustomed with architecture Vicky Tiel. Ditto Taylor’s 1960s mini-dress phase, back Tiel pioneered both styles in the mid-1960s. Newlyweds Taylor and Richard Burton were the designer’s aboriginal banking backers and as Tiel explains in her own ambrosial account It’s All About the Dress, she alike lived with Taylor as allotment of her associates for twenty years.

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Vicky Tiel modelling a brace of shorts, 1971. (Photo by Reg Lancaster/ Daily Express/Getty Images)

They aboriginal met in a flat bartering in 1964 afterwards Taylor admired a abbreviate accouterments on Tiel (wformed in blur apparel at the time). The afterward year Tiel created a carnal matte jersey bathrobe that would be adequate for adult travel, while additionally highlighting Taylor assets—a actualization the violet-eyed brilliant wore for the blow of her life. Soon, Tiel had confused to Paris and opened a bazaar with Mia Fonssagrives (the aperture night affair for their Mia Vicky Bazaar was a actualization appearance at Maxim’s in Paris and featured a blanket dress they’d created for the blur Candy). She advised the apparel for added films, like Woody Allen’s admission What’s New, Pussycat? and The Alone Game in Town, a antic about a blah Las Vegas showgirl (Taylor) wromances Warren Beatty; the artisan is additionally amid the abounding women waffair Beatty, off-screen.

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Inspired by 1950s allure of Ava Gardner and couture models, in the 1980s Tiel adapted corsetry and became accepted with the bearing of New Hollywood stars on and off awning through her cocktail poufs and ruched strapless jersey 1981 ‘mummy’ dress contour — a basic of stars like Anjelica Huston and Goldie Hawn and those catfighting Dynasty dames. Best famously, Tiel’s boned and sculpted off-the-shoulder dress originally created for French extra Anne Parillaud’s 1977 Cannes Blur Festival actualization became the iconic red clothes beat by Julia Roberts in Pretty Woman.

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